Mountain High

 Hiking Day 28    May 6

Borres to Berducedo

Miles 15.7

Total Miles 388.8

Ascent 3019’

Descent 2126’

We are doing the taxi shuttle routine for the next couple of hiking days like we did once earlier on the Primitivo. This is done due to finishing a day’s hike in very small villages that have little or no accommodations. So we hike to a pre-arranged location, wait for the taxi and shuttle to another town for the night. Next morning we taxi to where we stopped walking the prior day. We walk every step of the Camino, but we have a bit more comfortable accommodations for the night.

Today we know in advance that logistics will be a challenge today. First, the forecast is good, EXCEPT for some higher winds at times. Then this day is listed as one of the hardest of nay day on any Camino in Spain. Finally our taxi pickup is for 9 am from the prior hotel and then a 4 pm pickup at the end of today’s hike. No problem right? Except the hike is rated a 5 on the 1-5 scale of difficult terrain and is estimated as an 8-10 hour hike. Once we do the morning taxi, that leaves us about 6 hours and 45 minutes of trail time. 

What could go wrong?

 

 We exit the taxi back in Borres, and within 20 feet we begin the looong climb of the day, steep at first then less steep and more steep, on and off for the first 8-9 miles. Soon we reach a decision point. The trail forks, one branch taking the lower route and the other taking the high route on a trail called the “hospitales”. It climbs into the mountains, passing the ancient ruins of three pilgrim hospitals/hostels, with expansive views in all directions. Of course we choose the higher and more difficult route.

At about noon, the winds start to pick up, then slowly become more intense. Eventually the steady wind turns into frequent strong gusts. Our hiking clothes are flapping in the wind and walking a straight line is difficult at times as we are blown from side to side on the trail.

We climb higher and higher, well above most of the trees. It begins to look like a hike in the Colorado mountains. The trails are rough and rocky, we are constantly having to watch our footing as we move along. It could be Colorado, except for the elevation. The highest point of the day which is the highest point of the entire Camino Primitivo is 4,022 feet. At home our house is at about 5600 feet. 

                The mountain path, and yes that is our trail going straight up the hill in the distance.

We are pushing the pace, hoping to make our 4 pm taxi deadline. I begin to feel some left hip discomfort at 8 or so miles. Hopefully it will soon pass. At 9 miles we stop for a quick lunch break, huddled behind an old concrete shack, trying to escape the wind. Following the lunch stop, the trail finally starts downhill. A very steep downhill with tons of loose rocks. My pace slows as the hip continues to bother me.

              Looking back up at the long rocky descent. It is MUCH steeper than it appears in the photo.

After what seems to be an endless descent, the path begins to level off, at least for a bit. Then of course the mud reappears. Fortunately the winds have abated.

The clock is running as we continue on towards Berducedo and our taxi. In the trail appears a fabric purse laying on the ground, the kind with a webbed strap. The contents reveal that is belongs to a young woman from Ecuador. We ensure that is returned to the owner a mile or. so further down the trail. She is elated to be reunited with her purse, but in tears as she says what we first think is “It contains my DNA”. Surprised,  as our purse content search did not turn up anything that looked to be DNA, we are relieved to understand that she has said “DNI”, which is some type of Ecuadorian identification. 

Onward!! We reach the taxi pickup location with just 7 minutes to spare, but with enough time to down 3 large beers….just one each!

Tired and sore, the taxi drops us off at the small town of Pola de Allande, population 733. Tomorrow is a rest day. A rest day in a town with little to see and minimal amenities. Which is just what I need. Do nothing for a full day except heal my hip and knee. Perhaps the cumulative miles may be catching up with my body. And I thought I was invincible. Thirty six hours and I hope to be like new…