The Curs of the Camino

Hiking Day 26 May 4

Salas to Tineo

Miles 13.5

Total Miles 361.1

Ascent 2213’

Descent 910’

The term cur is usually used to describe a mongrel dog, particularly of aggressive or unfriendly nature.

And the majority of the dogs in Spain certainly fit this definition. A lot of the dogs we have encountered are downright mean and are endless barkers. Spanish dogs seem to be bred to be aggressive watch dogs. Not a dog that you would ever keep in your house or even leave outside unchained or unfenced. And certainly not the type of dog you would take for a walk, even on a leash.

The locals call them “alarma” or alarms. They are in essence the security system for most rural houses. And one dog is not enough, they keep two, three, or even more dogs at each house. And these dogs would like to do nothing more than to bite a pilgrim’s leg or perhaps devour an entire pilgrim.

As we walk along we are often surprised by a sudden lunging at a metal picket fence, accompanied by fierce barking and snarling or a dog leaping at us only to be stopped by the long chain around his neck that is secured into the concrete driveway or barnyard.

These dogs were plentiful along the Camino del Norte and for the first two days of the Camino Primitivo. Now we see much fewer such dogs on the Primitivo as the number of pilgrims has increased. It seems like the more pilgrims hiking any given Camino, the fewer the dogs. The Camino Santiago of three years ago also had far fewer “curs”. Perhaps the curs are shot if they actually eat a pilgrim? Hence fewer of them? Only a guess.

Trust me, these dogs might look happy but they are not!!

While on the topic of dogs, today we had an interesting dog experience.

We are hiking along on a rocky path that eventually intersected a narrow gravel road. I am in the front as we reach the intersection and am startled to see a large dog trotting towards me about 50 feet away. The dog does not charge, snarl, or bark, so I let my guard down as the three of us turn onto the road. We march along and the dog joins our little procession. And he continues to walk with us, as happy as can be to have found new walking friends. He is very large and furry, and not particularly well groomed. But a silent and congenial hiking companion. We expect for him to turn around at any time and are surprised that he continues with us. Scot tells him in Spanish to go home but he just ignores Scot.

The road becomes just a wide path that seems to be unused by cars. He tags along for about a mile and a half. Suddenly from behind we hear a car approaching at a rapid speed. Once along side us, the car abruptly brakes and the driver’s door flies open.

Out jumps a very agitated local white-haired lady, gesturing at us and speaking loudly as she covers the few feet between us. Carrying on in Spanish, Scot is able to ascertain that she is saying that the dog is hers and that we are taking her dog. We are not quite sure how we were stealing her dog from her house, a dog that she allowed to wander away. She then proceeds to say that she and the dog live in a village over 4 kilometers (over 2.5 miles) back the path.

She has a bit more to say, then loads the dog into her car and drives off. We were all relieved that we no longer have to figure out how to transport our stolen dog back to Colorado.

Today is a typical Primitivo day. The weather continues to slowly improve, the “mountains” and hills are green, and the mud and running water are always present. Over 2200’ of climbing but not a terribly hard day. Tonight we are in the hillside village of Tineo and staying at a small civil palace that was built in 1525. It is now a 4 star hotel and the rooms are very nice. We score our second early dinner in two nights and are finished eating just before 8 pm.